Mexican wrestling meets Food Network flare at new Denver restaurant
“Everybody is a luchador here in America. Everybody wakes up, puts that mask on, and goes to work every single day – it doesn’t matter what you are or what you like, we are luchadores of life."
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“Everybody is a luchador here in America. Everybody wakes up, puts that mask on, and goes to work every single day – it doesn’t matter what you are or what you like, we are luchadores of life.”
Those words of wisdom come from Denver chef and Food Network Zuri Resendiz, who opened his first restaurant, Luchador Taco & More, at 2030 E. 28th Ave., last month. The Whittier neighborhood spot pays homage to his Mexican heritage, his upbringing in the Mile High City, and the Latin American cultures that have influenced him over the years.
“My dad was a luchador back in the ’90s and he would take us to the Lucha libre, which is so big in Mexico. We’d share moments and have a great time, that’s what we’re trying to create here,” Resendiz said about the colorful and dramatic sport of Mexican wrestling.
That flare shows through at Luchador, where patrons are greeted by a vibrant mural by artist Salem Mares, featuring a luchador who is framed by indigenous Mexican women on either side.
But even more so on the menu, which is loaded not just with tacos (although there are plenty of those), but chef-style dishes, plated and presented with care.
For instance, there’s the cochinita pibil-style pork shank with black bean purée, pickled red onions, and habanero salsa ($27); the lomo saltado, which is stir-fried filet mignon, soy sauce, oyster sauce, onion, tomato, cilantro and potatoes ($26); and the hamachi tiradito, with habanero sweet potato puree, salsa chalaquita and aji amarillo tiger’s milk ($17).
Resendiz is currently competing in Food Network’s “Chopped” legends tournament, in which 16 former “Chopped” champions return to the kitchen via personal invitation. He won in 2021. (Blackbelly founder Hosea Rosenberg is also competing in the show.) He has also been a competitor and winner of “Guy’s Grocery Games,” hosted by Guy Fieri.
Originally from Mexico City, Resendez said he was inspired to cook by the women in his family. He moved to the U.S. in 2002 when he was 18 years old and learned English while working as a sandwich maker. Later, he took a job as a line cook at the now-closed Chinook Tavern and then joined the staff at Panzano, where he worked his way up to sous chef.
There he learned from respected Denver chef Elise Wiggins, and became her chef de cuisine at Cattivella in 2017. After several years there, Resendiz took an offer to be the executive chef at Stranahan’s Steakhouse. Ultimately, he said he felt stifled there, though, and left to travel to Mexico, where he had an epiphany while preparing a family feast.
The table was lavishly set with Italian and Mediterranean dishes when his grandma asked, “Why didn’t you make our food? Mexican food?” “That moment made me realize I needed to focus on my roots,” Resendiz explained.
So, when he returned to Denver, he started Luchador as a food truck in 2022 with the idea to blend his culinary training with his heritage in order to produce something that was uniquely his. The concept quickly gained a following and recognition from local media.
When deciding on a brick-and-mortar location, Resendiz knew he wanted a neighborhood with a strong sense of community. “Whittier is central, close to downtown and City Park,” he explained.
And the menu is designed to attract everyone, “Whether you want to grab tacos and a michelada, have a date night, or grab a drink before heading to the club, we’ve got you covered,” he added.
The chef’s culinary style is a fusion of the cultures that have shaped him. “I’ve had Venezuelan roommates, lived next to Puerto Ricans and Cubans, and my wife is Peruvian. Every dish has a story and a reason.” He described going to Puerto Rico and learning how to roast a hog in the mountains; visiting Peruvian beaches and making ceviche and tiraditos with the catch of the day. He also has a deep respect for the cooking methods of the Mayans and Aztecs.
The cocktail menu is equally creative, crafted with the help of Sean Hathaway-Casey, co-owner of Dirty Laundry. “Sean was one of the first to support the Luchador food truck and let us do a pop-up at his bar,” Chef Zuri said. Together, they developed unique drinks like a cilantro-mint-infused margarita; the Senor Luchador Old Fashioned with tequila, vermouth, mezcal, and chocolate and orange bitters; and their own take on a pineapple daiquiri.
One standout offering is the Whiszcal from Seed & Spirit Distilling in Fort Collins. “It’s mezcal aged in whiskey barrels. This batch is infused with al pastor flavors and is exclusive to us.”
“Over the last three years, Mexican and Latino culture has become really trendy. New generations of Americans are going to places like Cancun and Puerto Vallarta and absorbing those flavors,” Resendiz said. Now, “They are ready to really taste the authenticity of moles, pipianes, those complex sauces that are hard to find here in Denver.”
