These derm-approved retinol alternatives smooth fine lines without irritation

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Retinol is widely recognized as a graceful aging powerhouse due to far-ranging benefits that include making wrinkles, fine lines, and dark spots less visible. But retinol isn't right for everyone. Some people — especially those with certain skin conditions or general dryness and sensitivity, may find it too harsh. The good news? There are plenty of viable retinol alternatives you can add to your skincare routine.

"These alternatives are great for those who can't quite tolerate retinol," says Dr. Anna Chacon, MD, a board-certified dermatologist.

Not only that, but they can come in handy throughout pregnancy and breastfeeding when retinol use is not recommended.

Below, dermatologists share some of their favorite retinol alternatives and answer some of your retinol FAQs — like when you should switch to an alternative and what to look for in your products.

When should you use a retinol alternative?

Here are situations in which you'll want to consider a retinol alternative:

You're pregnant or breastfeeding.

The American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists (ACOG) recommends avoiding all retinoids during pregnancy. Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that can cross the placenta and be absorbed by the fetus. If you have too much vitamin A in your body, it can accumulate to toxic levels — which may explain rare reports of birth defects associated with the use of retinoid skin products. Most healthcare providers advise ditching the retinol just to play it safe.

"Although absorption through the skin is likely minimal, it's better to be cautious and avoid them during pregnancy," says Dr. Viktoryia Kazlosukaya, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and owner of Dermatology Circle, NYC.

Although there aren't any studies proving that using retinol is harmful to your baby while nursing, there aren't many studies proving it's safe, either. There's no way of knowing how much vitamin A your body will absorb and how much will get passed to your baby through your milk. That's why Dr. Roger Kapoor, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and Senior VP at Beloit Memorial Hospital, says it's best to press pause on your retinoid use until after you've stopped breastfeeding.

The side effects are intolerable.

Retinoids come in a wide range of strengths — and some of the lower-potency products can definitely be suitable for sensitive skin. That said, one of the greatest retinol risks is irritation. If you find that even low-dose retinoids are causing intolerable side effects, you might want to try an alternative instead, says Dr. Ruth McTighe, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Waccamaw Dermatology.

You have active rashes.

If you're dealing with a rosacea or eczema flare-up on your face, dermatologists recommend skipping retinol — at least until your skin calms down. Retinoids could exacerbate the redness, inflammation, dryness, and flakiness associated with these skin conditions, says Kapoor.

Bakuchiol

Research has repeatedly shown that the plant extract bakuchiol has many retinol-like properties. Like retinol, it appears to stimulate collagen production — and collagen is what supports and plumps the skin, thereby preventing it from sagging. According to Dr. Dara Spearman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and owner of Radiant Dermatology Associates, bakuchiol is a great retinol alternative because it's a lot gentler on the skin, making it safe for those with sensitive skin.

According to Kapoor and Chacon, bakuchiol can offer the following impressive benefits:

• Less visible dark spots
• Preventing clogged pores by promoting cell turnover
• Reducing fine lines and wrinkles

A 2022 review found that bakuchiol is just as effective as retinol in terms of diminishing signs of aging on the skin. Another 2019 study showed the same results and also found that bakuchiol is less likely to cause side effects like redness and itching than retinol.

As an added perk, Kapoor says that bakuchiol doesn't increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun like retinol does. While bakuchiol is generally considered safe to use while you're pregnant or breastfeeding, it's always a good idea to ask your doctor for input.

Niacinamide

Another potent retinol alternative that's usually well tolerated is niacinamide, which is a form of vitamin B3.

According to Kapoor, it's also super versatile — and a great fit for anyone with aging skin, sensitive skin, or acne-prone skin. Niacinamide can boost your skin's natural barrier function while improving both texture and tone. "It can also help control oil production and retain moisture in the skin by strengthening your skin's barrier," he adds.

According to McTighe and Spearman, many of the best niacinamide serums also incorporate other brightening, anti-aging, or exfoliating ingredients — like alpha hydroxy acids.

A 2021 review showed that niacinamide has anti-inflammatory effects, helps to prevent skin cell damage, and increases collagen production. It can also stop melanin from reaching the surface layers of the skin, which is what causes hyperpigmentation.

Studies have found that the potential benefits of niacinamide include:

• Less visible pores
• More even skin tone
• Reduced redness/blotchiness
• Increased hydration
• Diminished dark spots, wrinkles, and fine lines

Vitamin C

One of the reasons this dermatologist-approved ingredient gets so much hype is that it's backed by science. According to a 2017 review, vitamin C has several skin-supporting superpowers — namely, it stimulates collagen production and provides antioxidant protection against UV skin damage. Studies examined in this review found that regularly applying vitamin C to the skin topically can improve skin dryness, roughness, tightness, and tone while reducing wrinkle depth. It also hinders the production of melanin, which is the substance that gives your skin pigment — meaning that vitamin C can help to reduce and prevent sun spots and other kinds of discoloration.

Kapoor recommends a product with vitamin C for anyone who's looking to:

• Address uneven skin tone
• Reduce the appearance of dark spots
• Brighten their skin

Keep in mind that vitamin C can actually increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun, says Spearman. That's why she recommends slathering on sunscreen daily while using vitamin C for skin, particularly if you're applying it in the morning.

Vitamin C is a generally well-tolerated skincare ingredient — but it's important to be mindful of potency. Studies have found that you may be more prone to irritation if you use a product with vitamin C in concentrations above 20%. According to Kapoor, the best vitamin C serums feature a potency between 10% and 20%.

Peptides

As far as non-irritating retinol alternatives go, you truly can't beat peptides. In fact, peptides actually have soothing anti-inflammatory properties — making them an ideal fit for sensitive skin.

Peptides are the building blocks for two skin-enhancing proteins — collagen and elastin — and because of this, they can help your skin maintain its structure and flexibility, thus warding off signs of aging like sagging, wrinkles, and crepey skin. According to a 2021 review, peptides can also reduce sun spots by encouraging skin cells to regenerate.

According to Kapoor, peptides are not only gentle on the skin but can help repair damaged skin. While peptides can benefit anyone looking to improve their complexion, he says they're especially well-suited to anyone who:

• Recently had a skin procedure, like a laser treatment, and is looking to speed up the repair process
• Is interested in slowing signs of aging or recently began recognizing wrinkles and fine lines
• Is seeking firmer, more taut skin

A small 2019 study on women over the age of 40 found that using peptides can result in a noticeable improvement in the appearance of wrinkles, including crow's feet near the eyes, frown lines, horizontal forehead lines, nasolabial folds, and horizontal neck lines. Another small 2016 study found that after using a peptide serum for 14 weeks, participants noticed a significant improvement in skin softness, firmness, smoothness, luminosity, and radiance.

The beauty of peptides is that because they're so gentle, you can use them daily without risking irritation, says Spearman.

Rosehip Oil

Rosehip oil — which, for the record, is not the same thing as rose oil — is made by pressing the fruit of the rose plant, which can be found underneath the flower petals.

According to Spearman, rosehip oil is rich in skin-nourishing vitamins A, C, and E, as well as essential fatty acids. Vitamin A is essential for producing collagen.

Because of these nutrients, rosehip oil may help to:

• Improve skin moisture levels
• Reduce and ward off hyperpigmentation
• Improve the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines
• Fade acne scars

"The antioxidant properties protect the skin from environmental damage, promoting a healthy and radiant complexion," says Spearman. "Rosehip oil also helps to improve overall skin tone while supporting overall regeneration and repair."

According to a 2015 study, rosehip oil has anti-inflammatory properties, which makes it beneficial for people who struggle with eczema or other inflammatory skin conditions.

Cleveland Clinic recommends buying products that are packaged in bottles that block out the sun — this ensures the rosehip oil doesn't degrade quickly and the product maintains its effectiveness over time.

What to look for

Which alternative you choose may depend on your top skincare goals — whether that's fading dark spots, reducing the visibility of wrinkles and fine lines, or just overall brightening and firming. That said, there are some things that dermatologists recommend looking for when shopping for retinol alternative skincare products.

Sensitivity

"Especially if you have sensitive skin, look for ingredients that have been clinically tested and formulated by reputable brands," says Kazlosukaya.

According to Kazlosukaya, products labeled "dermatologist-tested," "hypoallergenic," or "for sensitive skin" are generally safe bets.

Dr. Rina Weimann, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Schweiger Dermatology Group, also advises seeking out products that are free of common irritants, including:

• Fragrance
• Alcohol
• Parabens
• Oxybenzone
• Triclosan
• Phthalates
• Mineral oil
• Coal tar
• Hydroquinone
• Triclocarban
• Triclosan

"Look for formulas that are enriched with hydrating components like hyaluronic acid or ceramides, along with soothing, anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide to calm the skin," adds McTighe.

These hydrating ingredients are helpful for warding off dryness and counteracting any side effects from the active ingredients.

When adding a retinol alternative into your routine, Weimann suggests doing a patch test by applying a small pea-sized amount to the inside of your forearm two or three times in one week. If you don't have any adverse reactions by the end of the week, then you can start applying the product to your face one to three times a week and increasing the frequency as tolerated.

Effectiveness

When investing in retinol alternatives, look for products that contain evidence-backed ingredients, says Kazlosukaya. The more research supporting the benefits of those ingredients, the better.

For example, a recent 2024 review found that retinol, vitamin C, bakuchiol, and growth factors are all effective anti-aging ingredients.

"Also, consulting a board-certified dermatologist is always the best way to find alternatives tailored to your specific needs," adds Kazlosukaya.